A walk-through with Brioni’s design director Norbert Stumpfl is a warming experience. After two years at the creative helm, the designer is still in the first phases of falling in love with the brand and its heritage, his eyes twinkling with passion above a sanitary mask while narrating the artisanal techniques, fabric research and hand-stitched details behind every piece in his new collection.
As often with Brioni, there’s more behind the sophisticated appearance of its tailoring, particularly sartorial craftsmanship conveying special, subtle details that add to the luxury aura of the brand.
For spring all roads led to Rome, as Stumpfl looked at the label’s roots, the city’s golden light and the colored marbles of its statues for inspiration.
In his quest for ease and lightness, he channeled Roman nonchalance with hand-stitched, unlined and ultra light — 110 grams — blazers and bomber jackets rendered in checkered motifs. Featherweight, double-faced trenchcoats and safari jackets weaving together wool and silk also telegraphed relaxed elegance while workwear was made luxury by replacing cotton with silk drill for a soft touch.
As for the brand’s signature suits, Stumpfl restated Brioni’s bond to colors that dates back to the Fifties via powder blue and pistachio options. Bolder tones ignited evening and tuxedo jackets, as seen in a fire red double-breasted one with satin lapels.
On the year of its 75th anniversary, the brand proved that it can dress a man from day to red carpet – Brioni ambassador Brad Pitt included – and that it takes real expertise to turn technical complications into effortless looks.