After presenting a convincing lineup for resort, Dean and Dan Caten turned out another solid and compelling collection for spring, unveiled via a lookbook-like video.

Setting aside the show format for a while probably helped the the Dsquared2 twins focus more on the design process and the brand’s aesthetic.

The designers rediscovered one of their core signatures, tailoring, here updated with a punk twist. Playing with proportions and volumes – sometimes oversized, sometimes shrunken – they offered a concise wardrobe for confident and slightly rebellious boys and girls.

An alluring Nineties vibe influenced the women’s lineup, where slip dresses and sleek skirt suits with PVC inserts mingled with revisited military pieces such as cargo pants and aviator jackets, detailed with drawstrings and zippers to adjust the silhouettes.

Adding a touch of sensual femininity, lingerie details – another strong Nineties reference – popped up both in the women’s range, as well as in the men’s lineup. There were also zebra prints and color blocks on rave-like tops matched with nylon pants with multiple zippers running down the legs. Bleached and reflective effects, as well as fishnet and studded textures, added an edge to the slick sartorial pieces.

Always fun and ironic as only the Caten twins can be, the collection also reflected a mature, unfussy interpretation of some of the brand’s most relevant codes, which felt very appropriate to the times.

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