Earthy colors featured in Philippe Paubert’s spring men’s wear collection for Emanuel Ungaro, which also favored linen in various blends.
For spring, comfort remained key for the Ungaro man, with soft, light jackets in seersucker or wafer-thin wool that retained a perfect structure due to their fine tailoring.
As ever at the house, fabric choice was important, with a penchant for texture, such as the mix of linen, cotton and a touch of bouclé. “Nothing is slick,” Paubert said.
A suit was crafted in technical fabric mixing polyamide and Lycra. Trousers came looser around the hips, while the hero product, a shirt-jacket, nodded to the house’s late designer with whom Paubert worked from 1992 to 2000.
Also in keeping with the founder’s penchants were the patterns — in-house designed, exclusive prints on shirting and inside jackets.
“Since the beginning, Mr. Ungaro was projecting his men in Saint Germain, on the Left Bank,” said Paubert, adding they were always artists, writers and musicians.
Ungaro’s film to present the spring collection dovetailed from there and also gleaned inspiration from the movie “La Pacha,” which opens with Serge Gainsbourg recording “Requiem Pour Un Con,” Paubert said.
In the video a group of friends forming a band rehearse in a studio while sporting a selection of Ungaro looks, ranging from casual to eveningwear in different segments. This was an apt metaphor for how the collection seamlessly bridges past and present.