Cargo pockets were the focus for Juun.J this season. The label kicked off its coed spring collection with full-pocket looks — they ran down the legs of roomy army trousers for him, hovering above the ankle, and, for her, covered the panels of a skirt, worn unzipped in front and back, freeing the legs. They were also carried like a pair of bulky saddle bags, cinched around the waist, resting on the hips, or, wide and flat, pressed into the front of an elegant military shirt with a crisp collar.
The designer called the collection “SeoulSoul,” and took his audience through the streets of the South Korean capital in an artful film presentation, accompanied by a harmonious track from Owen Pallett. Models marched the silhouettes over bridges, in chunky white sneakers or sharp stiletto boots, into markets and along shadowy streets, the camera zooming in, but also pulling back to show the skyline. Mostly in black and white, the images highlighted the volume and movement of the clothing — tightly cinched here, opened up and let loose there. Legs were a focal point for the designer, and he added an extra layer that resembled chaps, embellished with pockets and worn unzipped, flapping gently alongside the leg. Adding to the dreaminess of the presentation, dresses were airy and light, leaving a shoulder bare, or paired with a slick leather bomber jacket. The label’s signature cubic pouch accessories were worn on an armband or piled up on a hip — a new breed of fanny pack.
Without neglecting sharp shoulders and slick leather trenches the brand is known for, the designer managed to tone down the techno-futuristic vibes a notch without losing any fierceness. Army surplus never looked so sophisticated.