Alejandro Gómez Palomo offered a collection nodding to the techniques of the couture greats, adding his own irreverent touch inspired by nature’s rebirth during lockdown.
Classic-looking black pants, for example, were scooped out in the back to reveal some butt cleavage, framed with floral embellishments along the waistband crafted by the last remaining hand-embroidery workshop in Madrid. A green suit, meanwhile, had its bouquet of blossoms peeping out from the crotch.
Feathers and further embroideries were transformed into rustling grass, covering an extravagant top, and as details on other looks. These included silk balloon pants with poppy adornments, a black-and-white check ensemble and touches of PVC that accentuated the surreal eroticism of the collection, each look paired with bobbin-heeled mules. There was even a bride all in white silk, complete with an integrated bouquet.
His team reduced to just five people and using only archive fabrics, Palomo enjoyed the opportunity it gave him to go back to a more hands-on approach, he said over the phone. “It’s been a beautiful exercise in kind of coming back to how I used to work when I was doing my first collection,” he said. “In the past few seasons, I was traveling around and going to Madrid and coming back and doing the fittings and expecting my team to do everything, and now I was there with them, fitting and embroidering Swarovski crystals.”
The experience also allowed him to look beyond commercial constraints, he said.