Takuya Morikawa made his return to Tokyo Fashion Week after a few years of showing his collections in either New York or Paris. His was one of the few physical shows of the week, and he chose a lush greenhouse in a national garden as his location. It was a fitting venue for an offering of relaxed yet refined resortwear for stylish men.
In his show notes, Morikawa said he was inspired by Belgian artist René Magritte’s “visual representation of the idea of destroying the common illusion.” It wasn’t immediately clear how he applied this notion to the collection, except by combining different textiles and clothing elements in unexpected ways. And while it was a strong offering of unconventional men’s wear, it could have been even stronger if the theme had been taken further.
Morikawa paired loose-fitting pants with blazers that doubled as shirts, in lightweight cotton, linen and sheer polyester organdy. Some trousers had paper bag waists and long-tie belts to cinch them, while others had exaggerated cargo pockets at both the thighs and the calves, and zipped off to convert to knee-length shorts. Neutral white, navy, gray and tan offset pastel tones of lavender, mint, sky blue and lemon yellow.
Digital prints of botanical motifs decorated pleated shorts and pants topped with cummerbunds in more formal looks, and dip-dyed shirts and bomber jackets added punches of color to otherwise basic silhouettes.