Bally’s Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz channeled a Cold War-era Russian girl, one with the good fortune to have access to the diplomats’ store. Thus the collection was a mix of sobriety and richness. There was a host of little black wool crepe dresses — some with leather trimmings — and cashmere coats and buttery leather jackets with red fox fur collars. Accessories were done in exotic skins, such as ostrich and python, while loafers and high heels were hand-painted for a mottled effect.

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