In a season where many designers are running on a “buy-now-wear-now” platform, Francisco Costa dispensed with whatever murky associations surround the “pre” in pre-fall and made a play for straight-up fall with his Calvin Klein Collection. Shown in a tight, 20-look runway show, the lineup channeled womanly grace through a retro, nipped-waist silhouette with full skirts that fell to the knee. Beautiful coats were a major focus, and everything was impeccably tailored, but not severe. Pleats, whether clustered at the small of the back of a jacket or fluted on a slim skirt, were done with a roundness that tread the line between sculptural and classic.

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