Looking to Hitchcock movies for inspiration, John Galliano’s creative director Bill Gaytten presented a pre-fall collection that paid homage to the impeccable chic heroines of Fifties film noir. Even the models’ blonde hairstyles were covered with scarves, à la Tippi Hedren in “The Birds,” while the clothes were urban and retro. Scarf fringes, some in a lacquered embossed croc skin, embellished a wool coat, and heart-shaped necklines were used on tops and skirt suits in chartreuse green faille. Working the volume in Galliano vocabulary, asymmetric draping was shown on a black coat and also swirled around the body of a chiffon gown in a delicate peacock-feather print. A long black satin dress with lace panel inserts emphasized the austere sensuality that ran through the collection; it was only some bright pops of green and yellow, along with a pleated metallic lamé fabric, that sent lightning bolts through the collection’s dark mood.

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