Thakoon Panichgul approached his pre-fall collection with elegance in mind, asking himself, “What does that mean now? There’s so many different interpretations,” he said. “I wanted to make it supermodern and speedy.” At the risk of invoking the “classics with a twist” cliché, that’s what the collection was about: a baseline of chic perennials done up with special details. A sleeveless sheath in light gray banker’s wool was split up the side to reveal an underlayer skirt in white poplin. There were great shirtdresses and coats, such as a navy A-line style with a thick corduroy texture and a striped blanket coat with a ruffle in front. On the showier side, Panichgul included a navy leather skirt, laser cut like delicate lace, and chunky Mongolian knits in a mélange of pink and brown.

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