Olivier Theyskens has his “essentials” down to a science at Theyskens’ Theory: the perfect washed T-shirt, tie-dyed denim, a shrunken perfecto jacket in blue leather and chambray shirts in all kinds of cuts. It all makes up the foundation of his casual cool-girl blend, which was well addressed for pre-fall.

But there was a more polished and deliberate side to his collection, too, with what Theyskens called “matchy looks all in the same fabric.” For example, an ivory tailored jacket tucked into a matching silk skirt gave the impression of a single elongated blazer. Crinkled trenchcoats could be paired with trench skirts, some of which came in faded plaids inspired by photos of Northern England and Ireland’s rainy fall landscapes.

Theyskens also looked closer to home. A series of prints on silk T-shirts, midlength dresses and matching pants were inspired by the scaffolding one finds everywhere in New York City these days, including around the Theory showroom on Little West 12th Street.