“We banished the phrase pre-fall,” Michael Kors said at his terrific presentation Friday morning. “Considering that in September it’s still warm, ‘pre-something’ that doesn’t actually happen until November makes no sense to me. It’s trans-season.”
Whether “pre” or “trans,” Kors took the season on with sartorial savvy. Riffing on a man’s closet, he worked a boyish vibe with haberdashery details for clothes that were casual and chic or, as he put it, “sexy and slouchy at once.” He opened with a strong combination — blue shirt, gray pants, tailored camel coat worn over the model’s shoulders — and played on that motif throughout. A robelike cashgora coat was worn over a black top and red trousers — a look that could call to mind any one of the women Kors cited as his “all-time favorite” tomboys: C.Z. Guest, Alexa Chung, Jane Birkin and Slim Keith.
Evening, too, captured an understated sensibility, although deceivingly so. His black shift dress was cut like a T-shirt, the most basic of basics, yet came entirely beaded in a black paisley motif.
Elsewhere, more jeweled paisleys elevated otherwise simple silhouettes. They adorned pale-blue shantung pants, which were shown with a gray cashmere sweater and a camel-colored Chesterfield coat, while a crystal brooch was elegantly fastened to a preppy scarf.
The shoes, most of them flat, were also casually chic. Even his sneakers, a first for Kors’ main collection, were rendered in luxurious crocodile.