Evolving their spring silhouettes through a South American lens, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez provided a study in Gaucho cool for their Proenza Schouler pre-fall collection, sliced with fascinating fabric play and a vaguely Seventies sophistication. A black-and-white velvet and cotton jacquard coat, for example, loosely resembled a Mexican blanket. Shown with a white plongé leather top and matching culottes, it exuded both ease and polish. That sentiment was felt throughout the lineup, including the flocked pieces like the black-and-white viscose crepe top teamed with a double-faced wool coat, draped suede skirt and cool leather boots.

For evening, McCollough and Hernandez amped up the razzle-dazzle but still kept it restrained. A terrific trompe l’oeil top-and-skirt dress was decked out in circular sequins and beads for a look that managed to pull off a chicly conservative vibe.