Nearly every fabric was specially developed for Dior’s pre-fall collection — proof that Raf Simons does not take the season lightly. Continuing to work around his new versions of the house codes, the designer sourced numerous panther prints from the Dior archives and reinterpreted them in myriad ways, from a Xerox-like recolored print on satin dresses to embroidered tapestry coats in rich jacquards.

Simons also employed technical Japanese wool fabrics to rework the New Look silhouette with an ultrathin waist blooming into a full skirt, and used it for the panels of tailored jackets, coats and pants that eluded to updated versions of Gruau drawings. 

Inspired by T-shirt graphics, Simons modernized the eveningwear with woven images of floating flowers and landscapes affixed to the busts of glamorous satin numbers, such as a strappy top with a tail worn over languid pants. As for the astrakhan fur coat, it was spray-painted graffiti-style in ombré stripes.