Over the past few years, Jay Ahr creative director Jonathan Riss has carved a niche for youthful, sexy dressing with a focus on embroidery techniques that he’s developing in his Beijing-based atelier.

The metallic chains of past seasons gave way to pre-fall’s swirling zippers along the curvy silhouettes of short dresses, some sensually revealing the skin of a shoulder. The zippers, along with the restrained black-and-white palette with a touch of primary colors, emphasized the polished-punk allure. Ahr also used embossed fake leather for stiff flouncy skirts and a short biker jacket, while he covered his fluid black crepe T-shirt styles with metallic rings.

Ahr’s crispy synthetic fabrics, some of which looked like Japanese handwoven material made of thin plastic thread, marked a new turn in the collection.