As always, multiple wheels were whirring in Christopher Kane’s mind for his pre-fall women’s collection. Above all, there was a playful, artsy element: floral stickers heat-pressed onto a bubble-gum-pink suit, origami folds and peek-a-boo geometric shapes on shorter dresses, skirts fashioned from colorful patchwork lace and turtleneck sweaters decorated with patent leather patch pockets.

Another major motif was what Kane called “mechanical Art Nouveau”: coiled and twisted patterns resembling the iron gates of a Victorian mansion, which he used around the necklines of dresses. Outerwear, meanwhile, came with a cool edge, as in a slick shearling and patent leather biker jacket.

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