Jonathan Saunders played with a palette of unexpected combinations for pre-fall, noting that he wanted to examine how his customer approaches color. “She is looking for that balance between modernity and femininity,” the designer said.

So Saunders contrasted natural fabrics with vivid tones — one mannish-jacket-and-cropped-trouser combo was done in a cream-colored mélange wool fabric with a hot-pink tuxedo stripe down the leg, while an apple-green suit came in heavy wool. He also presented a mid-calf, fit-and-flare dress done in stripes of cream wool and deep red silk.

Saunders — who just announced a new investor in his label, Eiesha Bharti Pasricha — said he worked with a Japanese mill to render the “intense” colors on natural fabrics. But as a foil to the bold looks there were also designs that walked a more romantic line, as in a black-and-red striped, bias-cut calf-length dress overlaid with a delicate cherry-blossom print.

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