While Mary Katrantzou has explored myriad themes in past collections — ideas as diverse as the formation of Earth’s continents, postcards and elaborate interiors — for pre-fall she stripped down her inspirations. “It’s looking at the most popular tessellations that you find in fabric — the paisley, the houndstooth, the check,” said the designer.

But in Katrantzou’s hands, those patterns were far from workaday. She developed her own densely detailed paisley incorporating motifs from her past designs, such as clock faces and telephone dials, and fashioned a check in a pattern of tiny sequins, using the latter as a panel on a calf-length sleeveless taffeta dress. Other innovations included a blown-up houndstooth pattern embroidered in a red and yellow towelinglike texture on a black ankle-length wool gown, and a paisley on the skirt of a sleeveless A-line dress in a printed, laminated cotton that lent it structure. Katrantzou also showed a coated jacquard in shimmering shades of red, green and yellow — originally the reverse of a houndstooth fabric that she developed — used to great effect on a structured minidress.

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