Tomas Maier prefers brights for fall and pales for spring-summer, so pre-fall was saturated with mineral tones — purple, green, blue and orange — handled in a painter’s fashion. Cashmere V-necks were spray-painted for tonal nuance, and a wool wrap coat the color of parchment was treated like a blank canvas, hand-painted in bright green. “Everything has a bit of a fall attitude, but the material is very light,” said Maier, holding a dress that appeared to be herringbone but was a linen blend.

It was smart design, luxurious knits and separates that were easy but not basic. Color was the energizing and unifying factor in a series of silhouettes — slim, studious dresses and printed cardigans; monochromatic satin separates cut with some dramatic structure; and knit dresses and cardigans in a quirky “aquatic” motif — that shared a stylish oddball charm, emphasized by patent shoes with chunky heels and round toes.