“Rebellious, taut, sexy.” This is how Fausto Puglisi described the woman he portrayed with his pre-fall collection — a combination that was both feminine and bold thanks to the designer’s couture-like approach and meticulous attention to fabrics.

Mohair, for example, was stiffened and pressed to obtain the sharp silhouette of a sartorial power coat, with one side in bright aquamarine and the other in black. Puglisi also created a matte duchesse-like effect by covering a silk twill fabric with a material used in tailoring, which he worked in a maxiskirt featuring a panel in a zebra-inspired print customized to simulate wood grain. For day, he delivered a range of staples in strong patterns: a black-and-red checkered wrap mini-skirt along with cozy knitted crewnecks and turtlenecks.