DVF creative director Michael Herz knows the house mandate. “It’s about balancing street modernity with the girliness of Diane,” he said. Pre-fall presents another balancing act, that conundrum of wear now (May through August), but look autumnal — and look right, whether in the city or away — the latter articulated not as some stuffy vacation spot but as “the festivals.”

The sensible solution (the ethos of DVF is at its core pragmatic) was a palette reflective of late-October leafiness, but worked in lightweight fabrics with enough flou for a girl to waft in step at Coachella and Burning Man.

Playing into the boho: the fabric mélange. Some looks featured different constructions of the same print, and others, mixes of new and archival patterns inset with leather. On a crisper note, a short, denim-collared shirtdress made from wide strips of lace dyed different shades of blue worked the modern, girly angle to a snappy T.

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