With his mood board stocked with images of Dan Flavin’s early work, Jason Wu talked about how the artist’s graphic shapes and bold colors played out in his clothes: a saturated cobalt double-faced cashmere jacket and skirt, and a deep green slip gown with silver micro-geometric beading. But he addressed the collection’s message more succinctly when he pointed out a forest-green leather apron dress that folded around the body like a sleek envelope with delicate yet precise lines. “It’s really about the beauty of the fabric,” said Wu. “It does all the talking.”
The lineup was a seamless fusion of Wu’s fondness for American sportswear with an elegantly spare utilitarianism, perhaps gleaned from the time he’s been clocking as creative director of Hugo Boss. A coated cotton-canvas trench dress came in black with walnut-brown details, and a riff on the classic tuxedo was done in double-face cashmere with wide-leg pants.