With a mood board covered in images from the Industrial Revolution — as well as a few nods to Nineties grunge, à la teenage Kate Moss and Kurt Cobain — Karolina Zmarlak talked about the idea of decay and degradation, which informed not only her palette of black, slate gray and burgundy but also the intentional rawness seen in her signature seaming. A reversible, double-faced Italian wool coat in dual shades of gray with exaggerated lapels was a standout, as was a mixed-media taffeta and leather topper. Pre-fall marked Zmarlak’s first venture into cashmere knitwear, which she put her own twist on by focusing on precise tailoring and elongated sleeves.

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