Add Julien Dossena’s name to the list of designers who’ve opted to rework and refine fruitful ideas from past collections. His first pre-fall effort since joining Paco Rabanne in late 2013 carried forward the sporty, tomboy allure he’s spun to reboot the label’s Space Age image.
Sure, there were metal-mesh dresses, but styled with graphic Seventies ski sweaters or warm-up jackets (and not as short as the one Jane Birkin wore in the Sixties to shimmy with Serge Gainsbourg at a nightclub), plus flat shoes or boots. Dossena etched active references lightly and cleverly: stripes-banded pert pea coats and kicky skirts, industrial zippers slithered up body-conscious jersey dresses and sturdy judo cottons cut into boyish utility shirts and dresses.
“Easy, light and accessible,” he said. Minus some overcharged optical prints and asymmetrical looks pierced with metallic jewelry and grommets, most of the collection was — and youthful, too.