A black-and-white paparazzi shot of Mia Farrow found in an old issue of Maurizio Cattelan’s Permanent Food magazine provided Thakoon Panichgul’s visual inspiration for pre-fall. “If there is an overall message, it’s a bohemian quality with a moodiness,” he said, explaining that the collection was more about reworking ideas that have been commercially viable than pushing an overt theme.
Novelty knits and textured artisanal fabrics have been a hit for him, and will continue to be if this lineup was any indication. A wool jacquard coat in a mosaic tile pattern had a removable shearling collar and oversize knit cuffs for robust coziness. An exploded tweed jacket with an unfinished fringe trim was laced with bold colors, such as turquoise and red. The outerwear was an exercise in homespun chic, but there was plenty to layer under it, too, such as heathered ribbed knits — cropped pajama pants and poor-boy trapeze sweaters — and riffs on men’s shirts.