Live and learn. When Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen launched their store in Los Angeles a year ago, it was merchandised with a pre-fall collection of dark colors and hefty fabrics. “It was 110 degrees when we opened,” said Ashley at The Row’s pre-fall presentation. “So it was really important for us to explore weight and color in the right way, knowing what the weather was going to be like during this time.”

California’s climate and surf culture from the Fifties and Sixties steered the collection, the former more obvious than the latter in an ivory burlap linen coat over a short scuba shift, a lightweight mocha suede zip-up jacket over a long linen skirt, and an elegant pool-colored organza dress. Surf style was noticeable only if you were looking for it, in wet-suit-inspired necklines and the laid-back slouch of drawstring pants.

As usual, the focus was on the subdued luxury of impeccable fabrics with a refined artisanal hand and clean silhouettes. Ashley and Mary-Kate put an emphasis on color with muted shades of paprika, green and yellow. Beautiful but quiet, the collection benefited from the earthy adornment of fantastic embroidered slides. One hopes they go into production.

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