Playing on the idea of his spring show, but to a far more subdued degree, Thom Browne made his pre-fall collection all about uniforms. “The idea was simple shapes that aren’t boring,” he said, noting key pieces such as sack jackets and trousers, overcoats and waisted sport coats. Classics were anything but staid through Browne’s meticulous fabric development, including incredible tweeds that blended cotton-cashmere wool with paper and rubber for a unique texture, as well as richly refined silk jacquards based on traditional men’s tie patterns.

Known for his obsessive approach to detail, the designer gave each look a next-level finish, whether through trims — fur collars, braided silk and raw hems — or the utilitarian beauty of the traditional oxford shirt, a range of which Browne is developing. He’s a firm believer in the buttoned-up look, which is incomplete without a great shirt. “It enhances the specialty of the harder garments, which in turn elevates the shirt,” he said.

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