Victoriana and the haunting sepia images of 19th century photographer Julia Margaret Cameron planted the creative seeds for this polished and demure collection. Sarah Burton, the brand’s creative director, said the lineup had a “portrait-y feel, with links to the men’s wear and its military details,” most evident in the shape of dark green, heavy felt jackets with high necks and epaulets.

There was a quiet allure to Burton’s delicate shearling jackets inspired by riding tailcoats and supple, featherweight leather dresses with wide ruffles on the skirts or on the elbow-length sleeves. Other dresses, printed with meadow flowers, had hand-pleated bell sleeves, lace trim inspired by Victorian swatch books, and tulle panels adorned with tiny black-velvet blooms. Dresses were often worn with leather corset-style belts, giving them a signature McQueen edge. The standout for evening was a long tulle dress with flocking and jet beading.

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