Did Sherlock Holmes spend his adolescent years as a Boy Scout? Miuccia Prada might argue yes. For Miu Miu pre-fall, shown in a witty installation at the Palais d’Iéna, Prada integrated elements derived from imagery of 1920s Scouts, all properly turned out in snazzy walking shorts, with a practical swagger (and a British check or two) that nodded toward the great god of Scotland Yard.


Prada is something of a detective herself, uncovering seemingly unrelated, offbeat references and spinning them into engaging narratives delivered with her signature artistic-commercial alchemy. Here she worked multiple contrasts. Against her joint masculine inspirations, she juxtaposed dresses in Sixties upholstery prints Though feminine, these were far from frothy, the patterns swinging more geometric than girly. She mixed in cozy jacquard grandpa sweaters snazzed up with Lurex, and accessories galore. Miu Miu’s new bags are generously proportioned, some worked in graphic leather prints. And finishing the tale: jaunty caps along with floral knee socks and chunky, decorated mary janes with a hint of naughty — because every girl crosses the line sometimes. Scout’s honor.

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