“Building a wardrobe” and “trans-seasonal” are the buzzwords of pre-fall, and both were invoked by David Koma as he explained his third collection for Mugler. His vision for the house, based on sharp tailoring, sleek hardware details and seductive yet subdued cutouts, is resolutely cleaner and more down-to-earth than that of his predecessor, Nicola Formichetti.

There was major real-world appeal to the elegantly tailored coats, including various takes on trenches, and cutout knits that gave a softness to the sharp silhouettes. Rich navy, forest green and burgundy imparted a bourgeois classiness to the looks, which also included edgier elements, such as silver metal hook-and-eye closures on blazers and the introduction of leather on shirts, jackets and skirts. “Mugler without leather is not very Mugler,” Koma said.

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