Forget the buy-now-wear-now mantra of pre-fall dressing. “Wrap yourself in something warm,” was Julie de Libran’s come-on at Sonia Rykiel, where her second collection for the storied Left Bank house was headlined by fuzzy outerwear, checkered flannel and even knitted union suits. It was an enveloping, shrugged-on attitude that built on the retro-tinged vision of her runway debut.
Inspired by images of a Rykiel show in the Seventies showing turbaned models twirling in floral fabrics, de Libran visited Liberty London to trawl through its archives. As a result, she spliced stripes into filmy Liberty silks and jacquards for transitionally breezy dresses and jumpsuits. But the bulk of the lineup seemed to bank on sub-zero temperatures: densely textured knit capes and jackets, curvy pea coats with Watteau backs and even a hoodie in knitted sable. “Brady Bunch” sweater vests, mannish tailoring and high-waisted jeans telegraphed the effortless Parisian cool de Libran is plying.