Christopher Bailey’s first collection under the single Burberry label featured lush outerwear, military references and nods to the sporting life in the form of Burberry-emblazoned cashmere sweatshirts and striped zip-front cardigans. It was a pleasing play on proportion and texture with none of the grungy edge of the spring collection.


Bailey glammed up everyday outerwear with fur, doing up duffles in a mix of raccoon and fox; whipping white shearling into oversize aviator jackets or a double-breasted coat, and slipping a raccoon collar onto a trench-inspired cape. On the slimmer side, there was a sleek, belted cinnamon suede trench with a wide collar and a wink to the Seventies.


Spring’s military theme marched on into pre-fall in the form of dark cropped jackets, dramatic capes and fitted, elongated coats with rows of shiny buttons and red contrast piping on pockets and collars.


Dresses, skirts and coats showcased the collection’s signature detail — a contrast luggage-stitch motif that ran daintily over wispy silk crepe dresses, stretch denim skirts and wool boot-cut trousers.

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