Jonathan Anderson tinkered with zippers, adornments and plenty of volume in his shapely, sophisticated pre-fall collection with a haute feel.
Puffed proportions included leg-of-mutton sleeves on colorblock, boiled wool knits, done up in decorative effects such as ruched details across the front and back, jacquard patterns or curvy, zippered pockets. Volume also came in the form of little balloon skirts, and longer curving dresses, their sleeves and skirts encircled by zippers. Even tracksuits were inflated into new shapes, as in one cozy set done in dark green Shetland wool — more suited to the fireside than for the running track. Another style was done in double face silk, which Anderson said he loved for its “cloudlike” effect.
Leather played a starring role. Two examples of it included a short rounded black jacket trimmed with white underwear lace, and a dark dress edged in ruffles. Other adornments included pearl buttonlike studs on cotton trousers, and tops with Bakelite and metal bows dotted across the front.
Anderson also debuted his new Pierce bag, a sleek leather shoulder style that sits squarely under the armpit, and has a gold hardware clasp shaped like a big hoop earring. Kitten heels, meanwhile, had a trompe l’oeil fishnet effect or came dusted with guinea fowl feathers.