In a romantic mood for pre-fall, Markus Lupfer’s collection was particularly feminine with a folk spirit. Inspired by the Nordic outdoors and Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales, there were sweet swan prints on crepe de chine trousers and shirts and a moody, oversize floral embroidery on a cape. He worked with Scottish tartan manufacturer Lochcarron to develop his own tartan in a muted palette of grays and pastel pinks used on an oversize mohair coat and embroidered onto a black organza dress.
Knitwear, here, updated in folksy patterns, remains the label’s most important category, but Lupfer is expanding and branding. He added handbags to his collection, with playful, color-blocked styles in sturdy calf leather and suede embellished with oversize crystals or gilded logos — a lip motif incorporating Lupfer’s initials. The logo also appeared on shoes, including the block heels of a pair of sheepskin ankle boots. “It’s the first time that the brand is starting to feel complete,” said Lupfer.