Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi played with contrasts for their label’s second line, with a result that was both feminine and rock ‘n’ roll. The designers embraced the romantic spirit of singer Kate Bush with feminine floral prints and fluid dresses. Flowers were in fact scattered all over the collection, appliquéd onto the edges of oversize sweaters, while a print developed from hand drawings of botanical flowers blossomed across silk georgette blouses and dresses.
Another key motif was a check pattern, which appeared on a loose wrap dress. Drawn by hand with ink pens, it stood out for its imperfection. Adorned with subtle shoulder cutouts and playful pom-poms, dresses remained the most important part of the collection, and were in keeping with the label’s signature, asymmetric flowing silhouette.
Thornton and Bregazzi were just as much influenced by vintage photographs of rock bands and the Day of the Dead as they were by Bush’s lyricism: They juxtaposed the girly frills and florals with skull appliqués and boyish hooded sweaters. An oversize snake print sweatshirt was layered over a chiffon skirt, while patchwork leather pieces added an edge to the light, feminine ones.
This was the first season the designers experimented with leather. Patchwork pieces, including a pair of skinny leather trousers, a boxy-shouldered top and a shearling-trimmed jacket were hand-crocheted. Pulling things apart and putting the pieces back together was something the designers seemed to be doing a lot of: Sweaters were created by deconstructing traditional cable-knit patterns and putting them back together, while the wrap dress on offer was reworked from a men’s shirt.