Complex workmanship – and texture – were the hallmarks of this collection, which included 20 limited edition pieces, numbered and signed by the designer. Roksanda Ilincic said she was aiming for a 24/7 wardrobe, and that’s just what she delivered, with a collection that ranged from flared trousers and long cotton tunic shirts to floaty organza gowns.
The palette spanned soft pink and lilac, cream and mustard as well as a magnified peony pattern that came embroidered on a floor-length black organza dress, as a print on a silk georgette shirt dress, in fuzzy form on a jacquard patchwork skirt, or as a dramatic lilac embroidery on a pink mohair coat.
Ilincic treated whisper- thin leather as a fabric, working it into color-blocked dresses and short jackets, and used one of her favorite materials – duchess satin – in a short forest green dress with a curving hem. She also worked patent leather and silk fabric onto flat, abstract buttons on coats and dresses.
The highlight of this rich, tactile collection was a series of lighter-than-air gowns and full skirts adorned with masses of small, hollow organza fabric bubbles, which the designer has created in a limited edition of 20.