Roland Mouret used music as his muse this season in a collection inspired by Northern soul, the early Seventies British dance movement based on American soul. He loosened up his traditional curve-hugging silhouettes, creating looser clothing that’s meant for movement.
Looks included a sleeveless white dress with a thick black lace panel that curved around the body, and a bouclé mesh dress with navy lace panels inset in a chevron pattern down the front. The designer wanted to work with lace in a new way, and was adamant that it had a “graphic, rather than romantic” look.
There was a strong lineup of black dresses, too, including an embellished off-the-shoulder style; another with gentle draping at the back, and one with a brightly colored raffia pattern around the neckline.
Fitted, flared trousers with high waists — some worn with biker-style jackets with peplums — were out in force, while a gold lamé gown with one sleeve and a matching cape was crying to be worn by all Donna Summer wannabes.