Boyishness juxtaposed by strong femininity was the mood Ennio Capasa pursued for Costume National’s pre-fall. He borrowed from a velvet three-piece suit and military coats from men’s wardrobes, and evoked female sensuality with fluid shirts worn with tight leather skirts and a fitted Lurex dress with a ruffled detail. In keeping with his latest men’s runway show, Capasa played with embellishments; for example, decorating a wool felt coat with floral appliqués, and embroidering a bomber with metallic decorations. A Nineties undercurrent ran through the lineup, but Capasa kept the look modern, never nostalgic.

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