For pre-fall, creative directors Dean and Dan Caten called in the troops with an army-inspired collection. Naturally, their cadets were on glamour patrol. References to traditional military outwear came in a narrow wool coat embellished with patches, and a roomy wool and silk cape worn over a hyper-feminine, plissé cotton poplin dress. Parachute details appeared on a fitted wool crepe dress with applied pockets and a sporty nylon cape/bomber jacket hybrid. For evening, the designers shifted their strategy to Japan, embellishing a range of elegant pieces, including a strapless wool and silk minidress with origami details.