Peter Dundas’ pre-fall collection for Roberto Cavalli was a marked improvement over his debut as creative director at the label for spring. Without abandoning Cavalli’s sexy signatures, Dundas toned down the come-hither nature of the collection in favor of a more youthful, irreverent mood intended to attract a new generation of customer. He did so with a sense of humor, choosing a circus theme as the lineup’s driving motif, an ironic yet hopeful reference to the turbulent year the company experienced.
A precious intarsia decorating the back of a leather perfecto jacket celebrated the theme, along with a playful pattern of circus posters worked in a washed palette on a ruffled slipdress and a silk pajama suit. Bohemian dresses plucked from Cavalli’s classic vocabulary came in a graphic star and multicolor fireworks patterns, while tailored blazers were paired with casual denim pants. Enhancing the relaxed mood, many looks were finished with sporty leather high-tops.
As he did for the men’s collection, Dundas showed in Milan earlier this month, luxurious exotics, such as furs and snakeskins, were used for outerwear infused with a Seventies’ vibe. Of course, it wouldn’t be Cavalli without animalia: a leopard-printed velvet suit and leopard-patterned crystal and sequin embroideries on maxi tank dresses.