Tony Melillo referred to his latest pre-fall collection as “grunge-luxe.” His lineup of languid sweaters, wide-leg trousers and graphic, Modish minidresses oozed an understated, wearable ease; one that was undone but never messy. Silk blouses, tailored jackets and jumpsuits in sandy neutral tones were finished with oversize breast pockets, riffing on subtle utilitarian themes. Relaxed silhouettes came updated in textural fabrics — such as a large cardigan in a gauzy tape yarn and a few camisoles and skirts in crushed velvet — and were toughened up when paired with leather miniskirts and jackets.
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