Of the current crop of relatively new designers with promise, Kym Ellery is gaining traction with her intelligent, elegant approach to edgy style. Her retail network is impressive: Dover Street Market, Forty Five Ten, Space at Nordstrom, Net-a-porter, Matchesfashion.com, etc. And her pre-fall collection made it easy to see what’s attracting the top specialty stores: fine fabrics and luxe finishes on clothes that are distinctive and wearable.
Bob Fosse was the key reference for the season. There were men’s wear references and an undercurrent of Seventies glam but nothing too on the nose. A silk jacquard houndstooth jacket with a voluminous rumpled peplum was improbably light. It was styled with updates on Ellery’s signature silhouettes: cropped flared pants and a beautiful white silk tie blouse with trumpet sleeves. She heightened the theatrics with a thick jacquard top with exaggerated volume at the shoulders. A dress had sparkly mesh sleeves that could be bunched up to for a subtler shoulder volume.