Giambattista Valli’s pre-fall vision for Giamba, the (younger) sister collection to his main line, was sweet and slightly rebellious. Envisioning his eternally youthful downtown girl at Manhattan’s Chelsea Hotel or a Parisian nightclub in the Eighties, Valli anchored the lineup in familiar flirty skirts and minidresses in silk chiffon with high, ruffled necks, embellished collars and pleating. Leopard, star, butterfly and floral prints and embroideries evoked girlish naïveté, but Valli’s Mod, oversize outerwear, in black faux leather and colorful, shaggy faux fur, said: I’m not that innocent.

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