There was a lot of logic and reason behind Jason Wu’s pre-fall collection. With the exception of a few hefty wool pieces and a fantastic “monster” of an intarsia silver fox coat, everything was lightweight in fabrication — cotton, lace, silk — and ideal to ship in May. Yet above all, “it’s about creating really desirable clothes,” Wu said. “Now, everything has to be considered. Pieces have to really stand on their own.” Desire isn’t a science, but Wu’s graceful calculations solved out beautifully here.
Guided by Le Corbusier colors and the classic tension of masculine and feminine, the collection used the strength of sturdy men’s wear shapes and patterns to complement the fragility of feminine lace and lingerie effects. While solidly designed and merchandised as a whole, within the lineup were a plethora of specialty pieces. Working from the mannish premise, Wu did great things with patterns — houndstooth, herringbone, Glen plaid and Prince of Wales — puzzled together on smart wide-leg jacquard trousers or a deluxe printed pony patchwork coat. Details made all the difference: Zippers were put to clever use as corset seaming on dresses and jackets; traditional shirts featured corset panels over the bust; and a black, barely there lace dress with soft pleats had a little bite with a sporty, cutout racer-back.