Tweaking perception is at the core of the Margiela philosophy, and John Galliano made it central to his pre-fall collection. The look book shoot emphasized the lineup’s clever blur of masculine and feminine on a gender-ambiguous model. Moments of pure femininity and masculinity were interspersed with gender-bender pieces. A black taffeta-and-organza blouse with a beaded playing-card motif worn with a bonded gray A-line tweed skirt was traditionally feminine, while a teal double-breasted wool blazer bore the classic mannish cut of a wide shoulder. In total, the lineup was solid, making it hard to play favorites. Still, the transformational/trompe l’oeil effects packed a punch on a garçon jacket with a lining that could also be worn as a shirt and a shift dress that resembled a pair of men’s trousers on a hanger.

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