The contrarian teenage attitude of youth subculture is the perennial point of view for McQ. For pre-fall Sarah Burton drew on a few familiar sects of the young, rebellious and stylish — Riot grrrls and Teddy Boys — and, more surprisingly, the Masai tribe. Photos of members of the Masai wearing uncharacteristic draped black garments with unusual decorative elements reminded Burton of restless teenage style in a different culture. The various subcultures presented in long black crocheted vests and sweaters to reference the Masai; hot pink crepe tailoring in a nod to the Riot grrls; zebra-printed pony moto jackets to rep the Teddy Boys, and extra wide-leg pants that came in black lace, sparkles and black and white stripes for an edgy Japanese club-kid thing. The edgy spirit was an underlying one — McQ is a commercial enterprise, so all of the angst and rebellion was captured in cool, understandable silhouettes.