Narciso Rodriguez cut to the point for pre-fall. “It’s very straightforward,” he said during a preview. There was no major artistic inspiration or famous muse to hang the lineup on, just the needs of his client: the urban woman. Rodriguez gave her the beauty of reality with impeccable clothes, including sculptural coats in leather and wool with leather trim, painstakingly finished with ivory-and-black silk and wool hand-stitched linings. “I just want to make everything really special,” said Rodriguez.
Knitwear is a booming category for Rodriguez, growing his collection by 30 percent in the last year. Here, it consisted of collage T-shirts and body-hugging tank dresses in light, neutrals such as blush and bone. Rodriguez noted that he softened his go-to graphic palette of black and white to include earthier shades that included rust and orange on the bolder side. With his focus on chic practicality came many items that realistically blurred the line between day and evening. A thick, draped jersey dress could also be worn as a tunic over trousers, and a long, relaxed ivory crepe style could be perceived as a gown or a tunic, depending on how it’s styled.