As reported back in December — amidst seemingly endless discussions surrounding the disarray of the fashion calendar and retail delivery schedules — Proenza Schouler opted to experiment with its press strategy for pre-fall. Rather than presenting their latest lineup to the industry a few months ago as per industry tradition, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez kept their looks under wraps until today, closer to the collection’s delivery in stores on June 1. This pragmatic approach, the duo said, was twofold: withholding the pictures would prevent consumer fatigue — since increasingly savvy shoppers find ways to see new collections as soon as they’re unveiled to press — and would also reduce their risk of being knocked off by mass retailers.
The extra “private” time also allowed McCollough and Hernandez to whip up a short film created in collaboration with director Harley Weir, which they’ve released today online. “We were able to finish the collection and kind of sit on it for a minute,” Hernandez explained. “We had time — that luxurious thing that nobody has — to create content around the collection.”
The pre-fall lineup continued themes explored in McCollough and Hernandez’s spring 2016 collection, one marked by tiered ruffles, decorative grosgrain ribbons and shoulder-bearing tops that evoked a Latin sensuality — and it looked great. Most silhouettes were cut long and loose, as in oversize knit tunics, embellished ankle-length dresses and flared pants that pooled onto the floor. Other, more tailored styles — notably, a double-breasted patchwork tweed coat — were treated with artisanal accents, like raw-edged or fringed hems. One highlight: a coordinating set comprised of a striped, sleeveless tweed knit tunic with playful pom-poms and matching knit flares. All of it conveyed an easy chic underscored by the duo’s smart accessories, which included wooden-soled slides and a few variations on their newest top-handle handbag, called the Hava.