Julie de Libran compared pre-fall to a grid in which the needs and feedback of her clients, the house signatures and creative fashion need to fit together. That doesn’t mean she thought within the proverbial box. Shown during a small presentation at Milk Studios in New York, the lineup was full of variety, with a range of outfits that exuded a distinct sense of youth and fun but won’t alienate adult women.
Rykiel stripes were well played on a tweed knit cardigan and skirt and an easy long dress worn with a shorter, sharply tailored coat. If those were on the more classic end of the Rykiel spectrum, de Libran introduced feisty novelty with coats with cutouts around the lower back and glam-rockabilly tailoring, including a super-cropped jacket and boyish pants. Novelty patckwork denim was a highlight, as were the fluffy luxe accents of fur hats and collars. De Libran noted that the heart of Rykiel will always be in Saint Germain des Prés, where, she said, “the girls are very free.”