It’s no secret that Thom Browne loves a uniform. For pre-fall he declared that he wants to become a destination for a uniform for women, much in the way he’s known for short suits for men. What he has in mind for the fairer sex was the basis of his eerily fantastic, Asian-inspired spring collection: impeccably tailored jackets and pleated skirts. Here, the pieces were stripped a bit more bare and classically schoolish, though nothing was ever plain.
Tailored jackets came in versions of his registered tartan; varsity jackets, in patent leather and astrakhan. And a longer, more sophisticated coat version of a varsity jacket was shown in a military cashmere that was pretty soft but gets softer over time. “The snob appeal of it is that you won’t appreciate it, your children won’t appreciate but your grandchildren will,” said Browne of the cashmere’s better-with-age value. Browne knows the tension between novel/intriguingly weird and tradition. The best examples were jackets with a light down fill — he has experience from Moncler — and skirts with charmingly odd denim patch pockets inspired by Sears’ Toughskins. Not without a sense of whimsy, Browne paid homage to his long-haired dachshund puppy Hector, who was immortalized in prints as well as dog-shaped handbags.